Crécy Battlefield

Maintenay - 13th century Church 
of St. Nicholas

There have been many unknowns on this trip, particularly how much time would be needed to drive the route and visit the sights, especially traveling backroads.  My goal was to get a feel for the topography the army would have marched through and visit that which might remain from the time period. We had to 'adjust' along the way in order to arrive in Crécy when the museum was open and during daylight hours.

In the village of Maintenay, we viewed a medieval church in very sad condition. We located a pub (open on Sunday) and the owner was delighted to practice his English.  He offered a cold soft drink and a warm smile, both welcome after our long drive.

This Frenchman welcomed us with a kiss!

Visiting the Crécy battlefield was a high prioity for me for on August 26, 1346, the Black Prince, just sixteen led the army's vanguard and earned his spurs. The English had been on the march since early July; they were now exhausted and short of supplies.  The French, finally aroused, were on their tail. Edward located a highly defensible position and awaited King Philippe and his noble French knights.  It was late in the afternoon and the French had marched all day but, were eager for glory, they took to the field believing their numbers would win the day.

At the conference, I had heard I might be disappointed at Crécy, in particular that the museum was small.

So, I wasn't too disappointed to discover that in spite of all my double-checking, the museum was closed for the season. No matter; I was at Crécy!

We drove on up the hill about a quarter-mile out of town.
There's a small, easy-to-miss parking area across the road from a circular viewing tower where (supposedly) the windmill from which King Edward watched the battle stood.  Atop the tower was a panoramic display board detailing the English and French positions. We could look out across the cultivated fields and try to imagine thousands of men arrayed on the hillside.

I must admit, the land did not seem nearly as steep as what we had driven through earlier and I wondered why, considering all the places from which to choose, Edward chose this particular site.  To my untrained eyes, it didn't look all that different, or all that more commanding, than other locations.

There is a controversy whether this is the actual battle site as another has been proposed, similar to the situation with Bosworth battlfield today.

To visit this battlefield in person was truly special for me, particularly given all the research I've done on this battle alone.  I have waited to write the actual battle chapter until after this visit but I have written one scene. Prince Edward is sprawled on the ground, tired and sweaty, leaning back against the blue boards of the windmill.  He's waiting with his seasoned commanders for the French to arrive and the blue of the boards is reminiscient of the color of his mother's gown when he received his first real lesson in duty.  He had just celebrated his fifth birthday.  The duty before him is daunting but honor demands him to lead nonetheless. As I view Edward, it was no whim that he chose "Ich Dien" as his motto.  "I Serve" was truly how he led his life, that which gave it meaning. 

Looking down slope from English position.

The French approached from below the trees on the right, marching up the Vallee des Clerks. There's no road to get that area and we drove in circles for awhile trying to figure it out. We finally located the area using the directions and GPS coordinates provided by Peter Hoskins in his guidebook. Thank heavens my cell phone compass and hooray for technology!

French Approach 
 Vallee des Clerks

The photo to the left shows a waterlogged track up  a rise which is the Vallee des Clerks. The French would have marched up this track (?) between the berm on the right and the wood on the left.  At the end of the wood, they would have turned left and headed up the slope toward the English position. The French would have been hampered by the berm on the right so they were forced into a narrow area.  

How similar this is to what existed then is difficult to know but walking this track made the battle come alive for me.  When I exited the other end of the trees, I could imagine the English arrayed on the top of the hillside opening up in front of me, still a distance away but a steeper climb than it appears from above. 

The first wave of Genoese crossbowman approached and the English longbowmen let loose flight after flight of arrows before the Genoese could come within range of their own bows. The arrows were so thick, the Genoese turned back and were trampled by their own French cavalry. The archers,  on the flanks, shot at the knights' horses bringing them down and creating total havoc. They switched to armor-piercing bodkins as the range closed.  The piles of dead and wounded were so high, those coming in the following waves had to climb over the top.  Some chroniclers believe there were as many as fifteen waves of attack. 

Hand to hand combat was fierce and from all accounts, at one point, the prince went down. His standard bearer and men rallied around him until he regained his footing.  He may have been concussed; we'll never know for sure.  But as dusk settled, King Philippe was convinced to withdraw. The victory decimated the ranks of the French nobility and left the reign of Philippe in shambles. 
There is no doubt that Edward III's strategic use of artillery, aka longbow arrors, changed the face of warfare. No longer were mounted knights and lances to win the day.  The lowly archer, much less expensive to employ, was now England's vaunted battle hero. Edward's defensive position, team of battle-seasoned commanders, and strategic use of archers proved that strength of numbers alone did not dictate victory in battle. 

John of Bohemia Cross 

King John of Bohemia, a blind knight, died during this engagement. He and his entourage roped themselves together and rode into the fray.  His bravery is commemorated by a monument along the Vallee des Clerks route. It is said that in honor of King John's bravery, Edward adopted his ostrich feather and created his personal badge using this symbol.  

Black Prince's Badge
Used by every Prince of Wales since then. 

Day 7 - Calais to Abbeville

Pub Welcome Sign

Today we leave Calais but I have to share one last photo before we go.

For a moment, I thought I might have done a bit a time-travel á la Diana Galbadon and Outlander.  Had I gone back in time to my previous life in California? (picture right)

As many of you know, logistics planning for this trip was challenging. I anticipated cold, wet weather and shortened daylight hours. However, I underestimated how short ... the sun doesn't rise here until 8:15 AM!

We loaded the car,  programmed Sangatte into the GPS and headed west.  I wanted to travel the coast road rather than take a more direct route south because, during the siege of Calais, there was no dock for English ships which meant that when Queen Philippa and her ladies arrived (including Joan of Kent), they had to contend with a beach landing. I had imagined seabirds squawking and diving in the erratic wind, sand pitting the ladies' faces and a treacherous slog up the shingle.

Reality and imagination merged and I spent a few minutes just absorbing the atmosphere.  The scene I had written was vivid in my mind.

Sangatte Beach

The wind was biting and we jumped back into the warmth of the car. The land south of town is mainly agricultural and you can see a ridge building from east to west. We continued on our westward journey toward Wissant.

Just a few kilometers down the road that ridge rises to a considerable height and then drops precipitously into the sea.  That peak is called Cap Nez Blanc and is mentioned in chronicles of the time.  I had set another scene under its heights and wanted to see it for myself and again, the scene I had written came alive.

Cap Nez Blanc

The road along this stretch of the Opal Coast rolls over miles of cultivated farmland now since the tide flows have been 'managed' but during Edward's time, much of the lower elevations would have consisted of ever-shifting dunes and marsh. The chronicles describe the one levee road running from Gravelines (Flanders) to Sangatte and one small bridge over the Hames River referred to as the Nieulay bridge.

View from the top of the Cap

We followed our GPS route through the small, farming villages of Estaples and Wissant making our way to the largest town along the coast Boulogne sur Mer. By this time,  not only were were desperate for a cup of coffee (the French idea of 'grande' is about half the size of an American small, we needed food!  Parking karma was with us; the car just ahead backed out of a free parking spot.  After a jambon omelet (definitely not worth a photo) we headed to old town.

Although this town was not on Edward's march I wanted to stop there to explore the old town walls and castle, built in the 13th century.  Exploring the old cobblestone streets and the castle itself, complete with working moat, was well worth the extra time but if we were to get to Crécy and have enough time to explore before dark, we did need to get a move on.  This post will end here because Crécy deserves its own dedicated post.

Gate to Old Town - Ramparts Above

Boulogne Sur Mer Castle - 13th Century

Day 6 - Dover to Calais

Dover's White Cliffs

We bid adieu to Canterbury and caught a 6 am taxi to Dover for our 8:30 am departure on the P&O Ferry to Calais.  

The sky was clear and the sunrise beautiful over the Channel.  Surprising was the amount of ship traffic on the Channel.  Seeing so many ships in close proximity should not have come as any surprise but it did.

Calais is only 17 miles from dover and the white cliffs slipped by quickly. We chose to cross by boat as that was the way Edward would have done it ... the crossing was calm and we were grateful.

The "point' of cliffs as we sailed.

Arriving Port of Calais

I had always heard that one could see England from Calais if the weather was clear but I was not quite prepared for it ... when I looked back, there it was! I wish my camera was of a high enough quality to share that sight.  So close and yet a world away.

We picked up our Hertz rental at a gas station not far from the port and were happy that our request for an automatic transmission came to fruition.  And the English-speaking GPS system was a plus since Mary's Garmin, preprogrammed for France was non-functioning.  We made our way to the hotel, stashed our bags and headed out on foot, but unfortunately the weather changed and we were met with a bitter wind and misty rain. I thought of the English soldiers encamped in Villeneuve le Hardi for ten months during the siege of Calais and shuddered. Bear with us ... we are doing the chevauchee in reverse so our starting point in Calais comes after the English victory over the French at  Crécy on August 26, 1346 where the Black Prince won his spurs.

Hotel Meurice

The battle devastated the French nobility and left Philippe VI's government in chaos.  From there, Edward III marched north to Calais and after ten months the fortress surrendered.

Rodin's Burghers of Calais

Queen Philippa pleaded for their lives and King Edward conceded. Robin captured the moment and the bronze full life statue is prominently displayed outside the city hall.

Many scenes of my book occurr in Calais and I had hoped to gain a sense of the place but I must admit, it's difficult to imagine the army's encampment around the fortress walls given the contemporary city that now exists. Although, the bleakness of the area and the bitter wind are much the same, I suspect.

Fortress was surrounded by water.

Fortress bell tower.

Day 5 - Black Prince Tomb & Achievements

Canterbury has been the perfect place for hosting the Black Prince Conference.  Not only is it the site of his Chantry but he is entombed here, at his own request, which was a departure from the precedent of entombing royals at Westminster.

BP Achievements: Surcoat, shield, helm, gauntlets. 

His tomb is unique: not only did he specify he was to be stylized wearing his military regalia contrary to the fashion of the time but also that his effigy be made of gilded copper, instead of carved alabaster.  From recent x-ray analysis, it was determined that a mixture of gold and mercury was applied to the surface of the effigy, a very hazardous substance for the craftsmen to work with. Unlike effigy's of alabaster where the body lies on a slab, the BP's effigy was created in 3D and reflects him exactly as he would have looked had he been dressed for battle. Underneath his quartered surcoat he is most likely wearing something called a 'coat of plates' vs. a full armor breastplate. The clue for this is the way in which the surcoat flows softly over his body instead of having sharp angles that would be caused by full plate armor. Full plate was not yet a standard at the time of the BP's death but it is uncertain exactly when his tomb was commissioned.

The gauntlets on his hands are exact replicas of the ones hanging above him.  Such is the exacting nature of the effigy that his spurs actually spin! 

Tomb w/Achievements 

His "achievements" now on display above his tomb are replicas; the originals, as you might imagine are severely deteriorated and undergoing significant restoration at this time.

The original embroidery on the BP's surcoat consisted of three layers of silk fabric outlined in black silk thread with the fleur de lis and lions embroidered separately, padded, and then applied to the garment.  The lions were incredibly detailed including iridescent red eyes and blue claws and tongues which were symbolic to royals.

Just beyond the prince's tomb is the Corona Chapel and the tomb of Henry IV.  The Cathedral is so immense and so awe-inspiring I'd have to post about 50 pictures to provide a fair approximation of the splendor of the place!

Corona Shrine

Henry IV - Joan of Navarre

             

Day 4 - Searching for the Black Prince

Little did I know when I retired two years ago that my teenage dream of becoming a writer would be reignited to the extent it has. Nor did I understand what a journey of discovery was ahead of me when my favorite historical fiction author suggested I write a book about the Black Prince.

But here I am ... not only among the foremost authorities on the Black Prince but others from around the world who share my interest and passion for a man who was born almost 700 years ago.

Canterbury Cathedral Lodge & Conference Center

Richard Barber, Esteemed Historian

Richard Barber, known for his original biography of the BP, opened the conference sharing what can be understood about the BP from images of him: effigies, coins, seals, badges, and illustrations. Portraiture didn't exist as we know it today so there are no contemporary paintings of him.

Royals in the middle ages utlized their stylized images on coins the way politicians today might use Twitter.  Coins were the one medium medievals had that passed from hand to hand in a world where most of their subjects never came into contact or laid eyes on them. As important as money is today, it was even more so for rulers in the middle ages, especially the ability to control and standardize coin value.

Passionate, Engaging Michael Jones

A second speaker, of whom I now hold in even greater regard, is the recent Black Prince biographer Dr. Michael Jones. His passion and connection with the Black Prince were palpable. This biography sheds new light on the Prince's personal devotion to the Trinity and personal commitment to chivalric ideals but more importantly reveals that the prince did not choose to go to battle in Castile in support of Pedro the Cruel but was forced to do so by King Edward III.  Historians have long criticized the BP for this decision claiming it was an indication of his desire for vainglory. This misconception has now been fully dispelled.

The following presentation by Dr. Francis Woodman on The Fair Maid of Kent sent me spinning off the rails.  Unfortunately, most male historians portray Joan as rebellious, defiant, and a manipulator of men even as a naive, vulnerable 12 YO abroad in Flanders.  Dr. Woodman's heavy 'dissing' of Joan was so severe, I've been convinced I need to write my own white paper to be presented at a future medieval conference to represent an alternative, and less biased view, of her behavior.

The evening concluded with a presentation in the crypt with an expert on the archeology of the Lady Chapel in its place of honor located directly below the tomb of St. Thomas and just outside the BP Chantry.  The Lady Chapel is one of the few places within the Cathedral where the colored-painted murals have survived.

Lady Chapel Mural

Lady Chapel Mural

   

Day 3 - Exploring Canterbury & Opening Reception

The doorway under the word 'London'
is the entrance to our flat above.

Hi all! Thanks for taking the time to follow along.  It's great to read your comments so I hope you'll keep them coming!

Today, believe it or not, I slept in until 7:48 a.m.  Unheard of for me!  The conference didn't officially begin until the evening reception so we had the day to explore Canterbury on our own.  We gathered up our maps, walking tour instructions, and struck out to experience this historic town without being rushed. Our first goal was to explore the Cathedral grounds in the early morning as the sun was shining!

Bell Tower Barely Visible in Background

We arrived before most of the tourists and were able to wander the extensive and awe-inspiring grounds. The Cathedral was completely rebuilt from 1070 to 1077 and the east end, destroyed by fire in 1174, was rebuilt at the beginning of the 12th century in the Gothic style. It has long been a pilgrimage site, primarily due to the murder of Thomas Becket, during the reign of Henry II, and canonized as St. Thomas in 1173.  His shrine at the Cathedral is the starting point of pilgrimages to Santiago de Compostela. The reason the conference is being held here is that the Black Prince founded a Chantry here in 1463 and was entombed here at his death in 1346. More about that later.

Cloister/Garden Arches

Monastery Ruins

Cathedral Tunnel/Arches

After our Cathedral grounds walkabout, we took to the streets of Canterbury starting at the East Gate. For the most part, the streets within the Roman Walls are pedestrian only, at least from about 9 am - 7 pm which makes walking and shopping hassle-free.

Stour River View

We meandered along the cobblestone streets and alleys and found ourselves at Rosemary Lane!  As we progressed around town, we opted to take a punt tour on the River Stour which runs through Canterbury to the North Sea at Pegway Bay about 16 miles away.

 After a brief rest and glass of wine at the flat, we headed off to the conference's opening events. Mary opted to take the tour of the Cathedral Library Archives and I attended a lecture at the Black Prince's Chantry, founded in 1363.  As a condition of the Pope granting the needed dispensations for cousins Joan of Kent and Edward of Woodstock to marry, and BTW they needed four separate dispensations, Edward was required to found a church chantry.  He chose to do so at Canterbury as he had a religious affinity with St. Thomas Becket and the Holy Trinity. 

It's difficult to get pictures of the Chantry but I did my best. Our tour included the west crypt and the tour was led with the lights off, adding to the atmosphere and it enabled me to envision what the cathedral would have been like in the 14th century lit only by candles.  

Chantry Door from Crypt

Chantry Vaults

Chantry w/Vaults

Black Prince's Coat of Arms w/ Joan

Day 2 - Canterbury Bound

West Towers

After a quasi-adequate's night sleep, we caught the 10:08 am train to Canterbury.  The hour-long southeasterly trek took us through the rolling, bucolic Kent countryside, small villages, and fields of grazing sheep.  Before we knew it, we pulled into Canterbury West station.Out came our map and directions to our Airbnb flat, 'home' for the next four days.

We approached the ancient Roman city walls from the west and entered town proper through the Westgate Towers which have stood over the road to London for six centuries.

Buttermarket - Our Flat Top Right Building

Our host, Roy, met us at Buttermarket House, above which is our two-bedroom flat and compared to our accommodations in London, this place is a palace!

Cathedral Gate

Just a few steps from our front door, Cathedral Gate stands tall across High Street. After a quick settle-in we set off to explore and headed in the opposite direction from which we arrived.

St. Augustine's Abbey Ruins

Before we knew it, we had exited town proper through Burgate and found ourselves wandering outside St. Augustine's Abbey, now part of a UNESCO site. In the 6th century, St. Augustine, a poor monk, was dispatched from Rome to bring Christianity to the pagan Anglo-Saxons. He and his followers first worshipped in St. Martin's Church, England's oldest working church, part of which was built by the Romans in 397 A.D.

St. Martin's Gate

St. Martin's Front View

St. Martin's Entance

In the 6th century, the great grandaughter of Clovis I, Bertha, traveled from Frankia to Kent to marry the pagan King Aethelbert and cannonized for being instrumental in bringing Chirstianity to England.

As you view the church from the nave facing toward the back in the picture below, toward the bottom right you can just make out a bright spot about the backs of the pews.  That little bright spot is actually a small hole in the masonry through which the lepers were allowed to view/hear mass! 

View Toward Nave

Backw/Leper's Window

Cafe Rouge

After our trek to St. Martin's, we headed back to town to grab a late lunch at Cafe Rouge.  Since it was a French cafe, I ordered their Croque Monsieur and Mary sampled their 'tarte', a butternut squash savory version accompanied by a glass of wine. Alas, again, no food pictures.  How remiss of me!



By this time, around 4:30, it was beginning to get dark and we wandered over to the Cathedral hoping to savor a bit of spiritual solitude. We discovered the Cathedral was locked up for the night except for one entrance admitting the faithful for evening vespers. However, the nighttime ambiance was sublime!  The size of the Catherdral is daunting even by today's standards.  One can only imagine how impressive it must have appeared to the pilgrims who had travelled from such distances to make their obeisance there.

Canterbury Cathedral 

Canterbury Cathedral